I. GENERAL TERMS
Round – Amateur boxing matches are divided into 3 segments called rounds. They typically last 2 or 3 minutes each and have short breaks in between for the boxer to rest, receive coaching, and hydrate.
Boxing Stance or Beginner Boxing Stance – This refers to a boxer’s foot, hand, and body position. It is typically the start and end position and is also our resting position. Feet are an inch or two wider than shoulder width apart, one foot is the lead foot (front) and one is the rear foot (back) similar to a lunge position. Typically, the dominant leg will take a large step back. From here, the feet should be as though one foot is on one side of a train track and the other foot is on the other side of the track, not like both feet are on a tightrope! Foot position should be “long and wide”. The boxer’s weight is evenly distributed and their centre of mass remains in the middle of the legs. The lead foot points toward the opponent and the rear foot is approximately a 45 degree angle away from pointing at their opponent (toes out). The boxer can be up on the “balls of their feet” by picking up the heel of their lead and rear foot. Knees will be bent. The boxer’s fists are up by their chin or cheekbones if a beginner. Elbows are kept close to the body and the chin is tucked, while the shoulders should be relaxed and eyes on the opponent. This is the boxing stance.
Intermediate Boxing Stance – same as above except the lead hand is not directly on the chin or cheekbone protecting the face. The lead hand is placed further out front closer to the opponent to allow for easier parrying, shorter punching distance, and feinting. The rear hand may or may not be on chin or cheekbone. If the rear hand is off the face in front, it will not be as far off the face as the lead hand is. There will be a staggering of the hands.
Upright – Traditional boxers should have their torso in an upright position for most of their movements and while throwing straight punches. This means their spine should be in a neutral position (neither flexed nor extended) until it is appropriate or beneficial to do so. A boxer who is hunched over may appear fatigued.
Attack – This tells the boxer to use offensive tactics: punch the opponent, jab, cross, hooks, uppercuts, use a flurry of punches (non-stop fast and/or powerful punches), take control of the round, move forward, take advantage of a tired opponent, overwhelm the opponent, feint (trick opponent), counter-punch, punch first
Defend – This is how a boxer avoids getting hit or scored on by their opponent. There are multiple defensive tactics and skills used in boxing that can include using your hands, footwork, head movement and others. Hands/arms: block, catch, parry the opponent’s punches, footwork: pivoting, side step, forward or backward, lateral movement, torso/head movement: slip, bob and weave, duck, lean back
Advance – move forward against opponent, puts pressure on opponent, boxer appears more aggressive and in control, shows opponent lack of fear
Retreat – move backward or away from opponent, out of hitting range, can be used to position opponent in offence, can be used as defensive movement
Lateral Movement – move to the left or right against opponent (side to side rather than forward or backward), provides different angle and helps keep us off the ropes or getting trapped in a corner.
Lead Hand – the hand that is most in front while in an intermediate boxing stance. The lead hand is on the same side as our lead leg, which is the leg that is out front in our stance. For a right-handed person their lead hand is most often their left hand. The lead hand throws the jab, lead hook and lead uppercut. For a left-handed person their lead hand is most often their right hand. The lead hand is usually quicker, thrown more often and less powerful than the rear hand.
Rear Hand – the hand that is further back while in an intermediate boxing stance. The rear hand is on the same side as our rear leg, which is the leg that is behind us in our stance. For a right-handed person their rear hand is most often their right hand. The rear hand throws the cross, rear hook, and rear uppercut. For a left-handed person their rear hand is most often their left hand. The rear hand is usually more powerful, thrown less often, a bit slower, more intentional and riskier than the lead hand.
Lead Leg – the leg that is out front in our boxing stance. For a right-handed person this will likely be their left leg. For a left-handed person it will likely be their right leg.
Rear Leg – the leg that is behind us in our boxing stance. For a right-handed person this will likely be their right leg. For a left-handed person it will likely be their left leg.
Inside Boxing – exchanging punches at close range. Usually more hooks and uppercuts are thrown from this position, but other punches can be utilized as well. Inside fighting or “infighting” can help a boxer with a shorter reach (arm length or reach of their punch) take away the advantage if their opponent has a longer reach.
Outside Boxing – exchanging punches at long-range. This is typical of traditional boxer-style where long straight jabs are common. This is often used by boxers who have a longer reach than their opponent and want to prevent them from fighting inside.
Flurry – non-stop repeated punches that can be fast and/or powerful. Often used to overwhelm an opponent.
II. METHODS OF OFFENCE
Jab – a punch thrown with the lead hand. It is fast, “snappy”, can be strong but usually not as powerful as the cross. This punch is typically thrown more often than any other. It can be a great tool to keep an opponent off of you, judge the distance between you and the opponent, and can be used to set up other punches. This is also called “1” when referring to throwing a “1, 2” combination. For a beginner boxer, the jab starts from the chin or cheekbone, follows a straight path forward, and can be accompanied by a simultaneous step with the lead leg. Exhale at the end of the punch (when target is met).
Cross – a punch thrown with the rear hand. It is more powerful than the jab because the hips turn, rear foot pivots, allowing more of the body to be behind the punch. This punch typically requires a boxers feet to be planted (stationary) while the punch is thrown. The cross is also known as the power punch or number “2”. For a beginner boxer, the cross starts from the chin or cheekbone, follows a straight path forward, and is accompanied by a turn of the hips starting from the same side as the punch. The hips turn at the same time that the punch is thrown. Exhale at end of punch (when target is met).
Overhand/Looping Cross (Overcut) – a punch that is delivered in an arching motion, travelling downward toward opponent. This is a more advanced punch and requires shoulder mobility. It is used as an act of surprise against opponents. Usually used when the opponent is throwing a straight punch toward us, allowing us to go overhand to score first.
Lead Hook – This punch is thrown with the lead hand and is delivered in a semi-circular pattern, usually following the horizontal plane. The hook is executed by leading with your front hand, bringing your elbow up (beginners bring up to shoulder height) and rotating the front side of your body (in a similar motion as slamming a door). It is meant to reach beyond your opponent’s guard and make contact with the side of their head or chin. The lead hook can be very powerful because it utilizes the body by pivoting the lead foot at the same time that the punch is thrown.
Rear Hook – This punch is thrown with the rear hand and is delivered in a semi-circular pattern, usually following the horizontal plane. The hook is executed by leading with your rear hand, bringing your elbow up (beginners bring up to shoulder height) and rotating the rear side of your body (in a similar motion as slamming a door). It is meant to reach beyond your opponent’s guard and make contact with the side of their head or chin. The rear hook can be very powerful because it utilizes the body by pivoting the rear foot at the same time that the punch is thrown.
“Shovel/Uppercut” Hook – This punch can be thrown with the lead or rear hand and combines the hook’s rotational power with an upward shovel motion (similar to uppercut where palm faces up) to the opponent’s body. It can be used to surprise an opponent.
Check Hook – A counterpunch designed to “catch” an aggressive fighter as they are moving forward on the attack. This punch is thrown like a traditional hook, but involves simultaneously stepping back or to the side and timing the opponent as they come forward. It is a more advanced punch and usually comes from a slightly lower stance (knees more bent) position than straight punches.
Uppercut – A punch thrown in an upward fashion (palm is facing up), up the middle of a fighter’s guard, intended to make impact on their chin. It is delivered from a crouched position (knees more bent), with your hands up and, as you twist your upper torso, you extend your hand out and up slightly to make contact. This can be thrown with either hand.
Pivot w/ Foot – This refers to the turning motion of a foot while a punch is thrown (usually a cross or hook). The boxer has their heel off the ground, but the ball of their foot (and toes) remain in contact with the ground. The heel moves in a small counter-clockwise motion that is accompanied by the knee and hip on the same side turning inward. The toes never come off the ground during the entire movement.
Pivot w/ Leg – When a boxer wants to change their overall boxing position they may pivot their entire leg and body to give a new angle against their opponent, defensively or offensively. One foot will remain in its position while the other foot swings out either clockwise or counter-clockwise depending on where the boxer wants to land. For example if I am standing in front of my opponent, I can start with a left step toward the right side of my opponent, the left foot plants, followed by my right leg swinging out clockwise thus pivoting on my left leg, and finally the right foot lands in my boxing stance, ready to attack from a new angle (the right side of my opponent, rather than right in front of them).
Feint – also called Faking or feinting. It is when a punch or leg movement is used to make an opponent unnecessarily react, or to gauge their response so that it throws them off their game or makes them commit to a false move. For example, if I quickly move my lead foot forward like I’m about to take a step, but then quickly bring it back to position, it may cause my opponent to think a jab is coming, but I can surprise them with something else.
III. METHODS OF DEFENCE
Block – boxers can prevent their opponent’s punches from landing by using one’s arms or gloves to act as a quick barrier and absorbing some of the power. The elbows can be positioned together or separately to block body shots and uppercuts. The gloves can be used together or separately to help block punches aimed at the head.
Double-Hand High Block – this refers to a block that protects the head by using both gloves. A boxer can bring their gloves together side by side (pinkies together) and position their knuckles at or just above eyebrow height. Elbows should still be tucked close to the body. The knuckles inside the gloves should be held tight against the head so they cannot be easily swiped out of the way by the opponent. A small window should be formed allowing the boxer to see their opponent while in this defensive position.
Single-Hand High Block – this refers to a block that protects the head using one glove. A boxer can bring their glove from their chin to just above their ear. The glove should be pressed tight against the head and when contact is made, the shoulder can roll inward to help deflect the power of the punch.
Parry – using one hand to redirect the opponent’s punch. Your glove meets the opponent’s punch and with a slight movement or swat moves it off track from its target.
Catch – when a boxer uses their glove to firmly meet or absorb their opponent’s punch before it reaches its target. For example, if my opponent throws their jab at my face (and they’re right-handed), I can catch it with the palm of my right glove in front of my face. There should not be a large distance between catching the punch and my face, otherwise the punch will push my glove into my face.
Duck – the knees bend more and the torso lowers (dropping weight down) allowing a punch to travel above the head and miss instead.
Bob and Weave – Side to side and rolling movements that are used as defence to avoid punches. This is a more advanced skill. Heavyweight Joe Frazier is a classic example of someone who used the “bob and weave” defence to perfection.
Slip Inside – when a boxer moves their head toward the centre line of the opponent’s body (“inside”) to avoid the opponent’s punch. This can be a risky move because it positions the head as an easier target (right in front of the opponent). It can still be beneficial to know how to slip inside so one does not become predictable.
Slip Outside – when a boxer moves their head away from the centre line of the opponent’s body and more toward the outer shoulder area (“outside”) to avoid the punch. This is safer than slipping to the inside and positions one to come back with a powerful hook, uppercut or other punch.
Shoulder Roll – when a boxer leaves their front arm low and places it across their midsection so that when the opponent throws a punch one’s shoulder can be used to block or roll with it. This is so the defensive boxer is able to counter back with either hand because neither was used for blocking. For a right-handed fighter, it also automatically shifts their weight to the back foot and sets them up for a hard counter right cross.
IV. TRAINING CUES
Elbows In – elbows should be kept as close to the body as possible when in the boxing stance (sometimes this means rolling the shoulders forward a bit). This keeps the elbows in position to block punches to the body and lessen the area available to the opponent to hit. When throwing a straight punch, the elbow should not “pop out”, sometimes called a “chicken wing”, while being thrown. Keeping the elbow straight (but not locked) during a punch will allow a person to safely execute a more powerful punch.
Chin Tucked – boxers need to keep their chin down and in or close to their chest (without cutting off airway) so the chin is less vulnerable to uppercuts and other punches that can knock a person out.
Hands Up – beginner boxers need to keep their hands in a defensive position at the chin or cheekbones in order to limit risks. Boxers need to be ready to attack or defend at all times and having one’s hands up, especially while a beginner, gives a lot of options that prioritize their safety.
On Your Toes – when a boxer is “on their toes” or the ball of their foot and heel is off the ground, they are in position to push off that foot (depending on which direction they want to go) very quickly and change their position to better attack or defend. We do not literally mean to be on the toes like a dancer doing a pirouette. Rather, this is used when a boxer engages in the pendulum step, which is a back and forth motion using the balls of the feet for a pushing motion (ball of the foot is the padded area between toes and arch).
Relax Your Shoulders – beginner boxers often emulate the high shoulders (shoulders to ears) position of some pro boxers or movie boxers, but should strive to relax their shoulders instead and box more loosely. Tension is visible when the shoulders are high and can cause stiff or slower movements. Boxing more relaxed will help a boxer move more freely from one position to the next and allow more unpredictability, while also using far less energy (tense muscles will waste energy).
Eyes Up – when we first learn boxing we tend to look at our feet or the opponent’s feet, but we need to keep our eyes on the target. A lot of boxers will look at their opponent right between the collar bones. This can keep their shoulders in sight and lessen the chance of us giving away where we plan to punch next.
Snappy Punches – punches need to be fast in boxing (at least faster than our opponent). A snappy punch will return back to our chin or cheekbone as soon as it has met our target. We return the punch as soon as it has done its job in order to minimize the time we are vulnerable on the now open side of our body. When we are punching a heavy bag or target pads we can hear the snap of our punch when we land on the target. It is a sharp sound not a slow thud. This should be the goal of every punch that is intended to score.
Weight on Ball of Feet – our feet have a heel, an arch and then the padded portion between the toes and the arch. This padded portion is the ball of your foot and the weight will be placed here when we want to move in a particular direction or are in our boxing stance. This is opposed to having the weight on a flat foot or in the heels.
Avoid Crossing Feet – it is not unusual for beginner boxers to cross their feet when learning how to move laterally. Unfortunately, this is a perfect chance for an opponent to throw a punch and cause you to lose your balance. When a boxer moves to their left, their left leg will step first, and the right leg will follow, but the feet should never be in line like you are on a skateboard or tightrope. The end position should be exactly the same as the start position (boxing stance) where the feet are long and wide (remember the train tracks!) and the boxer is balanced and ready for anything.
V. BOXING STYLES
Orthodox – refers to a right-handed boxer. Their left hand is their lead hand (jab, lead hook, lead uppercut) , left leg is their lead leg and their right hand is their rear hand (cross, rear hook, rear uppercut) and right leg is their rear leg.
Southpaw – refers to a left-handed boxer. Their right hand is their lead hand (jab, lead hook, lead uppercut), right leg is their lead leg, and their left hand is their rear hand (cross, rear hook, rear uppercut), and the left leg is their rear leg.
Classic/Out-Boxer /Pure Boxer – The out-boxer seeks to maintain a gap from their opponent and fight with faster, longer range punches. Out-boxers are known for being extremely quick on their feet, which often makes up for a lack of power. Since they rely on the jabs and straight punches (as opposed to hooks and uppercuts), they tend to win by points decisions rather than by knockout, although some out-boxers can be aggressive and effective punchers
Swarmer – aka in-fighter/crowder is a boxer who attempts to overwhelm their opponent by applying constant pressure — taking away an opponent’s usually superior reach. Swarmers tend to have very good head movement in order to get inside (very close to opponent’s body). They usually have good power, a good chin (able to take hits to face without getting KO’d), and a tremendous punch output (resulting in a great need for stamina and conditioning). They tend to be fast on their feet which can make them difficult to evade for a slower fighter; or are great at cutting off the ring (cutting off opponent’s opportunities to move) with precise footwork. They also tend to have a good “chin” because this style usually involves being hit with many jabs before they can manoeuvre inside where they are more effective. Many swarmers are often either shorter fighters or fighters with shorter reaches, especially in the heavier classes, that have to get in close to be effective.
Brawler/Slugger – Many sluggers tend to lack finesse in the ring, but make up for it in raw power. Sluggers’ punches are often slow but have more body and follow through. This is advantageous in punching through an opponent’s guard and creating an opportunity to follow with further blows. Most sluggers lack mobility in the ring and may have difficulty pursuing boxers who are fast on their feet but that’s not always the case. Compared to swarmers and out-boxers, sluggers normally throw fewer but harder shots and rely less on combinations. Sluggers often throw predictable punching patterns (single punches with obvious leads) which can leave them open for counter punching.
Counter Puncher – A boxer that utilizes techniques that require the opposing boxer to make a mistake, and then capitalizing on that mistake. A skilled counter puncher can utilize such techniques as winning rounds with the jab or psychological tactics to entice an opponent to fall into an aggressive style that will exhaust them and leave them open for counter punches. For these reasons this form of boxing balances defence and offence but can lead to severe damage if the boxer who utilizes this technique has bad reflexes or isn’t quick enough.
Boxer Puncher – The boxer-puncher possesses many of the qualities of the out-boxer: hand speed, often an outstanding jab combination, and/or counter-punching skills, better defence and accuracy than a slugger, while possessing slugger type power. The Boxer-puncher may also be more willing to fight in an aggressive swarmer-style than an out-boxer. In general the boxer-puncher lacks the mobility and defensive expertise of the pure boxer. Boxer-punchers usually do well against out-boxers, especially if they can match their speed and mobility. They also tend to match up well against swarmers, because the extra power often discourages the swarmer’s aggression. Boxer-punchers can be hard to categorize since they can be closer in style to a slugger, swarmer, or an out-boxer.
Dancer – This boxer has exceptional footwork and uses movement to their advantage. They have incredible stamina and endurance and use this against their opponent. This can be combined with other styles. The dancer uses a lot of “in and out” punches, scoring on their opponent and then immediately retreating or moving to another position and repeating. They are fully capable of fluid, fast movement in any direction.
Switch-Hitter – A switch-hitter switches back and forth between a right-handed (orthodox) stance and a left-handed (southpaw) stance on purpose to confuse their opponents in a fight. Right-handed boxers would train in the left-handed (southpaw) stance, while southpaws would train in a right-handed (orthodox) stance, gaining the ability to switch back and forth after much training. A truly ambidextrous boxer can be successful in the switch-hitter style without as much training.
RESOURCES
Boxing Manitoba (n.d.). Officials and coach training and personal experience.
Pan Am Boxing Club (n.d.). Personal experience.
Title Boxing, (n.d.). Boxing dictionary. Retrieved from https://www.titleboxing.com/boxing-dictionary
Wikipedia, (n.d.). Boxing styles and technique. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boxing_styles_and_technique
Umbrella Boxing 